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Filtration Primer

Hands down, the most important thing that you need for your aquarium is a good filtration system. Whether you have fresh or saltwater, proper filtration is an absolute must. There are so many types of filters available, however, that picking the right one for your desired set up can be a daunting challenge. This article will take the guesswork out of the different stages of filtration (mechanical, chemical, and biological), as well as help you figure out which kind of filter is best for your aquarium and experience level (wet/dry, canister, and hang-on filters).

There are three basic stages of filtration. The first stage is generally going to be some kind of mechanical filtration. This is the most basic form of filtration, and what most people would think of as a true filter. For example, the paper liners that you use in a coffee machine use mechanical filtration to separate the coffee grinds out of the actual coffee. Mechanical filtration basically just means that some sort of material, known as filter media, is used to separate particulate matter from the water. Mechanical filtration usually comes in the form of foam or cotton pads, and it is very important to keep your mechanical filtration media clean so as to prevent a build up of debris.

The second stage of filtration is chemical. Chemical filtration is useful because it chemically binds to itself substances that are too small for mechanical filtration to get rid of. Carbon is the most commonly used form of chemical filtration. Due to the high temperatures and pressure used to create carbon, it becomes extremely porous at the molecular level. Carbon is then able to attract microscopic substances out of the water and into the micropores in a process known as adsorption. Chemical filtration is generally most useful in marine reef systems.

The final stage of filtration is biological, and this is by far the most important type of filtration. Proper biological filtration is what is going to keep your tank from spiking ammonia and nitrite, and is also going to have the most integral hand in keeping your fish happy and healthy. Biological filtration basically means that there are colonies of beneficial bacteria living in and on your filter media, feeding on nitrogenous wastes that build up in your tank. These beneficial bacteria are what you allow to colonize while you are waiting for you tank to cycle (read more about cycling here). This microscopic critters need three things to survive; food, oxygen, and plenty of room to grow. You won’t need to feed them, because, as mentioned earlier, these bacteria feed off the wastes that are already present in your aquarium water. They will need plenty of oxygen, however, in order to thrive.

Now that you have a basic understand of the three stages of filtration, it’s time to get into the different kinds of filters are available. This article will be focusing on the three main types of filters – hang on, wet/dry, and canister.

Hang-on filters are probably the most readily available and the easiest to use. Perfect for beginners, these filters are pretty much self-explanatory in that they literally hang off the side of your aquarium. Most hang-on filters come with a mesh pouch containing carbon (or some other form of chemical filtration) as well as a separate biological medium, such as corrugated, high surface-area plastic. Although these particular filters are easiest for beginners due to their simplistic design and ease of use, we would caution that because they are so compact you probably would not be able to fit in all the various forms of filtration media that you might need. We recommend the Aqua Clear hang-on filter, manufactured by Hagan. Aqua Clears compartmentalize the filter media, allowing for easier cleaning and versatility in available filter media.

Canister filters are more popular amongst intermediate hobbyists and are most often used on saltwater aquariums and planted tanks. Canister filters, such as the Eheim series, are all-inclusive; everything that you need comes in the box, taking the guesswork out of figuring out which types of filter media you would need. They allow for a greater quantity and variety of filter media. Another plus for canister filters is that they are closed systems, making them less likely to overflow when properly sealed. Canisters, unlike hang-on filters, are also external. They are able to sit inside cabinetry, hidden from view, making for a more streamlined and aesthetically pleasing aquarium. Canisters are also able to be disconnected for cleaning without disturbing the tank. Although cleaning a canister is a little more involved than hang-ons or wet/dry filters, canisters only really need to be cleaned approximately once a month.

Finally, we come to wet/dry filters. Wet/drys are the least utilized but most versatile filters available in the hobby today, and are recommended for intermediate and advanced hobbyists. They are also highly recommended for anyone who maintains a reef tank. Also known as a trickle filter, wet/drys allow for the water to pass through some form of mechanical filtration, and then that oxygenated water streams over a form of high-surface area biological substrate. Wet/dry filters have the highest level of biological filtration, thereby increasing your tank’s capacity for livestock. Because they have to be set up inside the cabinetry beneath the tank and plumbed back to the tank for return, wet/dry filters tend to turn away fishkeepers. However, once they are set up and running, wet/dry filters are the easiest to clean and maintain. We recommend the ProFlex wet/dry filter for its versatility.

Now, you should have a basic understanding of not only the stages of filtration that are necessary to maintain a happy and healthy aquarium, but also a general knowledge of the types of filters available. As always, if you have any questions regarding filtration or any other aspect of the fishkeeping hobby, feel free to give us a call at the store. You can also find us on Facebook and Twitter. Good luck!

The Nitrogen Cycle

The Nitrogen Cycle

Whether you are a long time fish-keeper or are new to the hobby, one of the most important things for you to know about and understand is the Nitrogen Cycle. Most hobbyists know this process simply as cycling, or New-Tank Syndrome. The Nitrogen Cycle, when referring to aquariums, is more of a process rather than an actual cycle. The end result of this process is the build-up of beneficial bacteria and nitrates in your aquarium and filtration system that break down ammonia and nitrogenous waste. So, what exactly is the Nitrogen Cycle?

The key to understanding the nitrogen cycle is to keep in mind that fish are living creatures. And living creatures need to do two things in order to survive; they need to eat, and they need to defecate. Well, this is where the Nitrogen Cycle begins. Typically, in the wild, fish live in a relatively large amount of water; they can live in ponds, lakes, rivers, or even in the open ocean. The advantage in this is that the water surrounding the fish is constantly moving and changing. This allows any sort of harmful build-up of waste or uneaten food to be flushed out of their habitat, bringing in a influx of clean water (with the exception of natural ponds,which, due to the higher surface area, allow for a freer exchange of harmful wastes out of the water). Unfortunately, this doesn’t happen in an aquarium. The water in your aquarium (at least in between water changes) is stagnant; it doesn’t have any place to go. Which means that any sort of fish waste or uneaten food also has no place to go. Depending on how long you typically go between water changes, this can be very harmful to your fish.

As fish waste (urine and feces) and any uneaten food builds up in your tank, it begins to decay and release ammonia. Ammonia in and of itself is highly toxic; fish can only tolerate as little as 2 ppm (parts per million) before their lives are in danger (which is also why it is so important not to use household cleaners on or around a fish tank; the ammonia in those cleaners can seep through the glass of your tank and leach into your water, killing your fish).

The good news is that there already exists in your tank specific bacteria that oxidizes ammonia. The bad news is that the result of that oxidation are nitrites, which are also highly toxic to fish. In fact, nitrites are even more harmful to your fish than ammonia; levels as low as 1 mg per liter of water can kill.

So how do you get these harmful nitrites out of your water? That’s where your filtration comes in. Growing on your (mature) filter media are bacteria that convert nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are simply another form of nitrogen, but one that is arguably less harmful to your fish than either ammonia or nitrites. Fish are able to withstand a much higher level of nitrate in their habitat; nitrates can rise up to 20 ppm before they are harmful to your fish, and up to 5 ppm before they are harmful to your corals.

Of course, this is not to say that you want your nitrates to get that high – but it is nice to know that you have a little more buffer room than you do with ammonia or nitrite. So how do you lower your nitrate levels? Easy – a water change! Water changes are probably the most important thing you can do to maintain the health and happiness of your fish. We recommend at least a ten percent water change every week to make sure that your fish are constantly getting an influx of fresh, clean water. Be sure to use a special dechlorinator (we recommend Prime by Seachem) to remove any harmful chemicals from your tap water before you put it into your tank. As an added bonus, Prime also removes ammonia from your tank, as well as detoxifying nitrates and nitrites (keep in mind, however, that Prime should be used as an additive to help keep ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in check; nothing will replace the benefit of a water change in keeping these compounds from reaching too high a level).

In summation, the nitrogen cycle is a three-stage process: (1) any fish waste or uneaten food begins to break down and decay, releasing harmful ammonia into the water; (2) the ammonia then begins to break down into even more harmful nitrite; (3) beneficial bacteria colonizing your filter media break down the nitrite into nitrate, a chemical that, although not nearly as toxic to fish as ammonia or nitrite, still should be monitored carefully to avoid reaching a deadly concentration. Water changes are the most important thing you can do to keep your tank healthy and to flush out the harmful byproducts of the nitrogen cycle. Be sure that you either have a test kit at the ready to make sure your water parameters are acceptable (or you can always bring a sample of your water down to the store, and we will be happy to test it for you). Taking fifteen to twenty minutes every week on testing and changing your water will save you lots of time and lots of money in the long run.

As always, if you have any questions regarding the nitrogen cycle or maintaining the health of you tank, feel free to call us at the store. You can also find us on Facebook. Good luck!

Product Spotlight: Seachem Headstart Aquarium Conditioning Pack

One of the most frustrating parts of starting up a new tank is waiting for your tank to cycle. It is important to wait until your ammonia and nitrites have spiked and then returned to zero before adding any fish, or you risk losing all the livestock you have so carefully chosen and acclimated into your tank. While there is really no shortcut to cycling your tank, there are ways for you to help it along. That’s where the Seachem Headstart Aquarium Conditioning Pack comes in. Headstart consists of 100 mL bottles of bestsellers Prime, Stability, and Clarity. Together, this trio will help to make your water safe for livestock, prevent new tank syndrome, and clear cloudy water.

The first step in the Headstart Pack is Prime, a water conditioner for both fresh and marine systems. Basically, Prime removes chlorine, chloramine, and ammonia from your tap water before you put it in your tank. Prime also detoxifies nitrites and nitrates, which allows your biofilter to more efficiently remove them. For a more in depth look at why it is so important to remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate from your tank water, you may read our article here. In short, all you really need to know about Prime is that it removes these harmful compounds from your water before they do any damage to your aquarium. An added bonus is that Prime also helps to build up the slime coat on your fish, which will help protect them from parasites such as ick. In addition to using Prime while your tank is cycling, it should also be used, in accordance with the directions on the label, to dechlorinate your tap water every time you do a water change.

The next step in the Headstart program is Stability. Stability contains a synergistic blend of aerobic, anaerobic, and facultative bacteria the facilitates the breakdown of waste organics, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. An extension of Prime, Stability takes the detoxification of your water one step further in that it actually contains the beneficial bacteria necessary to break down toxic wastes in your aquarium (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate). Stability rapidly establishes the biological aspect of your filtration system, as opposed to waiting days or even weeks for it to form on its own (despite the rapidity of Stability, you should always test your water to make sure the levels are appropriate for livestock; as always, these chemicals should be used to supplement the cycling process, not replace it).

The final step is Clarity. Clarity is a floculating agent that is both reef and plant safe…[and] will clear all types of clouding. Clarity will remove chemical, physical, and biological clouding by bunching up any small particulate matter into larger particles and dropping them to the bottom of your tank. Than, all you need to do is use a gravel vac and remove the particulate matter, the same as you would during a routine cleaning. Don’t be alarmed if your water gets cloudier right after adding Clarity; that is normal, and should subside in about an hour or so. Once Clarity has finished working its magic, your water should be crystal clear.

Most aquarists would agree that waiting for your tank to cycle can be one of the most frustrating aspects of the hobby. It involves a lot of patience, and a bit of work to continually test the water, and it can be hard to have to wait to start adding fish. That’s the whole point of having an aquarium, after all! And although nothing will keep you from having to wait (at least a little while)for you tank to cycle, Seachem’s Headstart Aquarium Conditioning Pack will certainly help speed things along. This trio of products will also help to stabilize your tank, helping to prevent the possibility of fish loss.

Questions, comments, concerns? Be sure to give us a call at the store, or check us out on Facebook.

We’re on Facebook!

As many of you know, Suffolk County Fish and Reef has recently launched a Facebook Fan page. We just wanted to take some time here and offer a couple of reasons why you should check us out.

  1. It’s one of the best ways to get your questions answered. As much as we’d love to help you at the store, sometimes we just get so busy! Especially since we’re on the road so much servicing our maintenance clients, it can get kind of difficult to track us down. That’s one of the main reasons we launched the Facebook and Twitter pages. All you have to do is just post your question to our wall or discussion board on Facebook, or send us a tweet on Twitter, and we can get back to you with an answer as soon as possible. It’s also a great place to mention a particular fish or product you’re interested in; it gives us time to do a little research and check on the availability of whatever it is that you’re looking for.
  2. It gives all of you a great forum to discuss the fishkeeping hobby amongst yourselves. Because there are so many hobbyists out there, and such a huge wealth of information to be shared, it was very important to us that all of our members, clients, and customers have as much access to that information as possible. What better way to do that than to allow you to connect to your fellow fish- and coralkeepers?
  3. Because Facebook allows you to post pictures and videos, it’s a great way to show off all your hard work. A lot goes into the care and keeping of a great pond or aquarium, and it’s always rewarding to be able to show others the fruits of your labor.
  4. Are you a member with Suffolk County Fish and Reef? If you’re not, you should be. We will be using both Twitter and Facebook to communicate special offers, discounts, and coupons to our members. Not to mention all the other great perks that come along with membership.
  5. It gives us a place to keep you all abreast of what is going on in the hobby. Anytime we hear about anything new or interesting going on in the realm of aquaculture, we will make sure that you know about it as soon as possible.

Be sure to “Like” us on Facebook to take advantage of these and other great benefits.

Product Spotlight: Tigger-Pods by Reef Nutrition

Suffolk County Fish and Reef has recently begun carrying the Reef Nutrition line manufactured by Reed Mariculture. The line includes several varieties of live or freshly prepared foods for your marine fish and invertebrates. The stand-out product are the Tigger-Pods (tigriopus californicus), which are live, large, red copepods measuring anywhere between 250 and 1700 microns.

So, what is so great about Tigger-Pods? According to the claims made by the company, quite a number of things. Tigger-Pods “swim upward, with a stimulating, jerky motion,” making them “attractive to both fish and people.” Reed Mariculture claims that they are an excellent food for “finicky fish.” They are also supposed to be great for “propagation, increasing biodiversity, and restocking reef refugia.” Because they are a live food, it is possible for them to breed while in your tank, although Reed Mariculture suggests the use of a refugium if you want them to breed in large numbers. Tigger-Pods will eat a wide range of particulate foods, but it is suggested that they be fed Phyto-Feast, another product in the Reef Nutrition line.

How do these claims hold up? “Surprisingly well,” says Tom. “I would have to agree with [Reed Mariculture] that Tigger-Pods are great for finicky fish, in particular dragonets and small angels.” Tom recommends housing them in a slow-flow refugium so they don’t get jettisoned out into the main tank. As for breeding, “they will breed exponentially in refugiums, but they should be replenished every three months in order to introduce new genetic material and to keep the population from crashing,” says Tom. Tom also agrees with Reed Mariculture in that Phyo-Feast would be the best, most readily available food to feed your Tigger-Pods. “Although they will eat whatever particulate matter is in your tank, to optimize propagation I would definitely recommend the Phyto-Feast. You can follow the directions on the back of the bottle (1 to 5 drops per gallon per day), and it will act as the best source of consistent nutrients needed for growth and breeding.” Also, because you will be feeding your Tigger-Pods the best they can get, that will, in turn, cause the Tigger-Pods themselves to provide the best nutrition for your fish and invertebrates. As for storing your Tigger-Pods, you will want to keep them in a refrigerator at about 46 degrees. Make sure to keep the bottle vented by pressing down on the cap to open it; remember that these are live creatures, and they need air to breathe.

If you have any questions regarding Tigger-Pods or any other product in the Reef Nutrition line (or feeding your fish in general), feel free to give us a call at the store. You may also find us on Facebook.